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Starlink Standard dish on a rural metal roof.
Field notes

Where the cable comes in

A dish on the roof can look fine from the street. Leaks and overheating usually start at the hole in the wall, the cable strain, and a router shut in a cupboard.

DIY versus installed

Common DIY problems, and what we do instead

Typical DIY pain

  • A hole drilled through the tile
  • Router in a closed cabinet that cooks in summer
  • Cable flapping on Colorbond
  • Tripod sitting on tiles with no ballast plan

What we actually do

  • The right mount for the roof: under-tile mount on tile, tripod on Colorbond
  • One neat cable entry and a tidy cable route
  • Router on the backing wall, near power
  • A walk-through so you know how to switch it off safely
Lyndhurst rental with cabinet entry.
Lyndhurst rental with cabinet entry.
Residential Starlink scene.
Residential Starlink scene.

What we keep seeing

A hole through a tile with silicone from the hardware aisle. Cable draped to a window and crushed in the sash. Router in a closed AV cabinet with no ventilation. Strain relief missing, so the first northerly leans on the connector.

The standard finish

On brick veneer the cable goes in under the tiles at the eave, down the wall cavity between the brick and the stud wall, past the noggin, to a wall plate on the plaster side. That is included. We don't run it through internal walls. If the cavity can't be used, it runs on the outside wall, held with Starlink cable clips, or in conduit, for $99. A rental can use an existing cabinet, such as the Hills Home Hub used at Lyndhurst, when that is the right place for the router.

Also in Field notes

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